{"id":1350,"date":"2025-05-12T08:23:07","date_gmt":"2025-05-12T07:23:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/web33.secure-secure.co.uk\/marklucock.com\/blog\/?page_id=1350"},"modified":"2025-05-13T02:47:20","modified_gmt":"2025-05-13T01:47:20","slug":"using-pre-shot-to-catch-wildlife-action-on-fujifilm-cameras","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/web33.secure-secure.co.uk\/marklucock.com\/blog\/using-pre-shot-to-catch-wildlife-action-on-fujifilm-cameras\/","title":{"rendered":"Using \u201cPre-Shot\u201d to Catch Wildlife Action on Fujifilm Cameras"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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I used pre-shot, focusing on this swallow as it sat on this wooden post. When it took off after a tasty, winged insect, I released the shutter fully and collected a series of swallow flight shots. It was about to get dark, so ISO had to be ramped up higher than I\u2019m comfortable with. However, grain beats blur every time; 500mm, f\/5.6, 1\/1250 sec, ISO 4000<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

If I had to elect one camera feature that has made a \u201csea-change\u201d difference to photography in the last few years, it wouldn\u2019t be sensor resolution, frame rate or extra card slots, it would be the ability to capture a pre-burst of buffered images on half pressing the shutter button prior to fully depressing the shutter, at which point the buffered images are copied to your memory card while further images continue to be collected at a predetermined frame rate. Fujifilm, Canon, Nikon and Sony all offer cameras with this feature, usually, but not exclusively in their flagship models.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Not all \u201cpre-shot\u201d images are about freezing fast action, they may also simply allow you to catch the best image, or an unexpected poise within a sequence of otherwise \u201cordinary\u2019 images shot under difficult circumstances. This purple swamp hen was walking amongst some ducks and reeds making a clean shot difficult. This unusual portrait hit the mark as his eyes met my lens \u2013 all other files were discarded; 500mm, f\/5.6, 1\/480 sec, ISO1250<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Why is this such a game changer? Well, I can only speak to Fujifilm\u2019s take on this clever feature, although I suspect much of what I say is relevant to all camera marques. It is a game changer because you can now catch elusive, fleeting moments that we cannot even visualise, let alone successfully actuate a shutter release at the critical moment an animal exhibits a particular behaviour; our human eye-brain-trigger finger reflex just isn\u2019t up to the job. The fact that pre-shot can address this and permit the successful capture of visually imperceptible key behavioural moments means we can now catch images like never before. At least the common man can; I say this because even back in the 1980\u2019s Stephen Dalton was using high-speed flash techniques that he pioneered to catch insects, birds and other animals in flight or mid-leap (see https:\/\/www.stephendalton.co.uk<\/a>\/). Now, thanks to pre-shot, I often end up with behavioural wildlife images that I feel may be comparable to Stephen Dalton\u2019s work, as do so many other contemporary wildlife photographers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Without pre-shot these images would have been near on impossible (or at least very challenging) to take. I focused on the white-faced heron as it was ready to impale a fish, keeping the shutter half pressed, as the heron unleashed, I caught a succession of frames including the one which freezes the water droplets (500mm, f\/5.6, 1\/2000 sec, ISO 2500). The other image is in a subsequent series that shows the heron playing with his meal as he tosses it around (500mm, f\/6.4, 1\/2000 sec, ISO 2500).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Pre-shot is perfect for bird take off, wildlife conflict (aggressive behaviour), catching a perfect composition of flighty species, feeding behaviour etc. The fact is we have no precognitive ability when it comes to predicting the precise moment a bird will take off, even if we do have a degree of insight into a species\u2019 behaviour. Of course, this all sounds great, but the success of pre-shot relies on a reasonable frame rate to catch at least one winning frame from maybe 40 or more images\/second. After a good day\u2019s photography, you could come back with 10,000 images \u2013 hopefully all caught with the electronic rather than mechanical shutter. I suspect you\u2019d soon need to replace the mechanical shutter if you were regularly taking 10,000 images on it every week or so. As it is, dealing with this number of images requires some ruthless triaging \u2013 especially if you have a high megapixel camera and shoot in RAW (forget megabytes and think dozens of gigabytes per shoot).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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This black-shouldered kite didn\u2019t require pre-shot, but using it provided me with more choice when it comes to selecting the best composition in terms of what the eyes are doing; 600mm, f\/8.0, 1\/800 sec, ISO 500<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The following image shows the classic use of pre-shot to catch fast, flighty birds as they take off. This singing honeyeater was very challenging to shoot, but produced an okay BIF shot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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This singing honeyeater would have been impossible to shoot in flight without pre-shot; f\/9.0, 1\/3200 sec, ISO 2500<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Everybody will evolve their own settings to achieve successful pre-shot images. In my case, pre-shot is usually applied to bird photography, with custom settings set up to deal with different scenarios (open or tree-tangled scenes) and variable lighting conditions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n


In general, for tree-tangled scenes I\u2019d use bird detect with a spot (single point) continuous AF mode, aperture priority (lens wide open) and a starting ISO of 1250. The frame rate would be 40 FPS using the electronic shutter. Pre-shot with these settings on my Fuji XH2s and 500mm f5.6 lens is great at catching \u201cTHE\u201d moment. In more open environments I would alter the focus area to zone and if light is very good, I\u2019d drop the ISO to 500. I\u2019d use the same set up on the Fuji XH2 and 150-600mm lens, but obviously use the slower maximum FPS settings with its electronic shutter. The caveat to these settings is that you need to have a working ISO that forces the correct shutter speed for your subject \u2013 I aim for 1\/3200 sec, but anything above 1\/2000 might work okay, depending on the subject, and what it\u2019s up to (flying, fighting, eating etc). If movements are slow, but difficult to predict, you can get away with very slow shutter speeds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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This blue fairy wren was singing away as if there was no tomorrow and wasn\u2019t distracted by my camera. Pre-shot works brilliantly to catch the beak at its widest gape; 600mm, f\/8.0, 1\/160 sec, ISO 500 and 600mm, f\/8.0, 1\/400 sec, ISO 500<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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This sulphur crested cockatoo was really busy toying with this piece of wood, so I used pre-shot to try and catch the best tongue shot \u2013 I ended up with a couple of images, but this was the best one; f\/5.6, 1\/200 sec, ISO 500<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

If I\u2019m solely interested in birds in flight, then I tend to use a custom manual setting that has an ISO of 3200 or 2500 and shutter speed of 1\/3200 as my starting point.<\/p>\n\n\n\n


The following images show what\u2019s possible when using Fujifilm\u2019s pre-shot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n


I sat in my car with the window down at dusk, focusing my Fujifilm 500mm f\/5.6 lens on a post that was popular with some welcome swallows. Several swallows were queuing up to use this post as a spotting platform for insects. I shot a great many sequences using pre-shot mode (focus on swallows on the post shooting to the buffer [a I second loop]), then after they lift off depressing the shutter fully to write that 1 second buffer to my CF type B card. There were several keepers using this approach -see below.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A similar scenario presented itself at this same location earlier in the evening. Red kneed dotterels are small waders that are amusing to watch as they beetle around the wetlands and mud. At certain times of year, they can be seen engaging in aggressive behaviour towards each other. Apparently, they like to defecate on their rivals\u2019 heads \u2013 interesting behaviour to capture. I\u2019m not sure that is what they are doing in the following images, but you never know. The first image shows a red kneed dotterel doing a John Cleese ministry of silly walks sprint along the water\u2019s edge. All images (aggression and running) were taken using pre-shot mode.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Pre-shot is great fun to experiment with in your garden where you can hone your birds in flight skill set. The following images were all made possible using pre-shot, and were taken in my garden.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Two shots of a new holland honeyeater in flight<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The following sequence shows five images of a red wattlebird taking off from a bird bath in my garden \u2013 all images taken at f\/5.6, 1\/3200 sec, ISO 2500<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Of course, not only can you shoot BIF in your garden, but also behavioural shots such as this red wattlebird caught making its characteristic raucous loud cackle. Again, you\u2019d be lucky to catch this without pre-focus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Red wattlebird; 500mm, f\/5.6, 1\/300 sec, ISO 1250<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

There is a saying amongst bird photographers that it\u2019s better to get a good photo of an ordinary species than a poor photo of a rare or exotic species. With that in mind, common species such as the new holland honeyeater that dominate our gardens and most places that I photograph present a perfect bird species to practice on. In Australia we are lucky to have such a magnificent colourful and bold aeronaut to photograph. Certainly, more satisfying than chasing sparrows. The following images were shot using pre-shot and conjure up anthropomorphic parodies of a serious meeting and animated argument respectively<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A new holland honeyeater gathering (squabbling!)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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New holland honeyeater conclave; 500mm, f\/5.6, 1\/75 \u2013 1\/340 sec, ISO 1250 (both)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

This same species of honeyeater is very dynamic. They don\u2019t stop for more than a brief second and are difficult to shoot in a good pose. Pre-shot is perfect to shoot with as it provides an increased likelihood of catching a classic pose that is pleasing to the eye. Here are some examples, all of which were shot from a hide.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Feeding is a good time to shoot with pre-shot as you can shoot to buffer until something interesting happens and then fully release the shutter \u2013 hindsight that actually works! Here I shot a nankeen kestrel feeding \u2013 when (just after) he opened his beak I released the shutter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Nankeen kestrel; 500mm, f\/5.6, 1\/1800 sec, ISO 500<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Quite often a bird will shift position, and you know it is about to take off. This white-faced heron is an example. It got into this position ready for take-off as I buffered shots with pre-shot. I pressed the shutter fully but was too close to get a good flight shot. Still, this is an unusual and interesting pose<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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White-faced heron; 600mm, f\/8.0, 1\/900 sec, ISO 500<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Pre-shot is the only reliable way to catch the moment a bird strikes for prey. Here I used the technique to catch the moment a white-faced heron\u2019s head broke into the water. The second shot is part of a similar sequence showing a heron catching prey<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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White-faced heron; both shots 600mm, f\/8.0, 1\/2500 sec, ISO1250<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

When faced with a colony of sea birds you can really have fun with pre-shot. This crested tern colony was busier than Piccadilly Circus in rush hour. I prefocused on a bird in flight using pre-shot as I panned, and when I was happy with the composition (or I saw a critical momentary event) I released the shutter. The following two tern images are very different but were both caught thanks to pre-shot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Crested tern in flight with fish in bill; 500mm, f\/5.6, 1\/2000 sec, ISO 1250<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Crested tern immediately after taking off; 500mm, f\/9.0, 1\/2000 sec, ISO 1250<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I think that one of the best birds to hone your BIF skill set on has to be swallows. Difficult to catch on the wing, they are fairly easy to catch as they take off using pre-shot. This individual below was sitting on some barbed wire fencing. I used pre-shot to buffer images until he took off. The resulting image below is one of the best images I\u2019ve taken of a swallow, and without pre-shot it would have been nearly impossible to achieve.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Welcome swallow; 600mm, f\/9.0, 1\/2500 sec, ISO 1250<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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A blended sequence of a single willie wagtail taken in a 40 FPS BIF burst using pre-shot to lock onto the bird whilst it was sat on a barbed wire fence; 500mm, f\/10.0, 1\/3200 sec, ISO 2500<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Using pre-shot is great fun; make sure you practise, and you\u2019ll end up with some great shots, not to mention a lot of blurry rubbish, just be prepared for a lot of data \u2013 the flip side of this type of photography.<\/p>\n\n\n\n


I\u2019ll end this article with a three-image sequence of a spotted dove taking off from the gravel driveway in my garden. I used pre-shot knowing that as I approached the bird it would fly off, hopefully in the right direction to avoid the classic bird \u201cbum\u201d shot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Spotted dove taking off; 500mm, f\/5.6, 1\/3200 sec, ISO 2500<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Have fun!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

If I had to elect one camera feature that has made a \u201csea-change\u201d difference to photography in the last few years, it wouldn\u2019t be sensor resolution, frame rate or extra card slots, it would be the ability to capture a pre-burst of buffered images on half pressing the shutter button prior to fully depressing the … Continue reading Using \u201cPre-Shot\u201d to Catch Wildlife Action on Fujifilm Cameras<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-1350","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"yoast_head":"\nUsing \u201cPre-Shot\u201d to Catch Wildlife Action on Fujifilm Cameras - Mark Lucock Photography<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Using Pre-Shot for Bird and Wildlife Photography; Fujifilm Cameras; Fuji 500mm f\/5.6 Lens; Fujifilm X-H2s Camera; Fujifilm X-H2 Camera\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/web33.secure-secure.co.uk\/marklucock.com\/blog\/using-pre-shot-to-catch-wildlife-action-on-fujifilm-cameras\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Using \u201cPre-Shot\u201d to Catch Wildlife Action on Fujifilm Cameras - Mark Lucock Photography\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Using Pre-Shot for Bird and Wildlife Photography; 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